Experience The Ghost of Citrus Center

Maybe you have never heard of Citrus Center, folks, but it is a real place in Glades County.  I found the marker on Hwy. 78 leading from Moore Haven to Ortona about half way. It hides in grasses on the side of the highway next to the entrance to People’s Ranch across from Wayman Road. IMG_1832Citrus Center is sad. All that’s left of a once thriving town around the first of the 20th century is a road sign that’s like a grave marker.  The road to the ghost town is closed to the public. History books say there were at least a 100 people living in Citrus Center and it had fine 2-story hotel, one of the largest in South Florida, built in 1917. There was a church and a post office and the pioneer spirit of these early Florida settlers in Citrus Center was filled with hope and enthusiasm. It had a school and many new homes. Before new roads were built that bypassed the booming town it was a major stop by boat on the Caloosahatchee River with brisk trade including the produce of watermelon farms, tropical fruit and honey.  It was still booming in 1925 with moonshine a hot commodity but the hurricane of 1926 was disastrous. A Moore Haven old timer, Tommy Cook , remembers going to school there in the 1930s when his dad worked on dredging the Caloosahatchee. He remembers the day the hotel burnt to the ground while the owners were out on the river to get the catch of the day to be served to their dinner  guests.  Rumors spread about arson. Glades County always was, and still is, a place where a rumor can start in one community like Lakeport and  be going strong the next day 30 miles away in Muse.   Back then there were also rumors of battles over land  between cattle barons and the citified gentry moving in.  Houses were burnt. Fences put up. It was Florida’s wild wild west, many Florida historian has said.  There were many other factors that caused the demise of Citrus Center including the depression years, but mostly the undeniable fact that people didn’t take steam boats anymore to travel the river towns of South Florida after a major highway was built right through Moore Haven and shifting prosperity to this competing small town, now the county seat. You can find a little information in the Glades County History Book for sale at the library about Citrus Center, but not much. I wanted to get a sense of this forgotten place of Glades County and took my Sunday drive down tree lined Wayman Road to investigate what’s left.  Here you see beautiful ranches in a pastoral setting , country homes belonging to some of Glades County’s first families of the Citrus Center area , names like Peoples, Ahern and Ward among them. IMG_1814Here you see one of the most authentic historic homes remaining in Glades County, the Adolph Bernhardt home built circa 1915. IMG_1826The present owners, the Garvey’s, have lovingly restored this beautiful house to a magnificent showcase.  We were lucky enough to get a tour.  It wasn’t planned but a wonderful surprise. They know the house was a kit home, perhaps an Sears or an Alladin, but no records can be found.

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Becky and Buddy Garvey have recreated the historic period of the house

There is the old barn still standing that Bernhardt and his two sisters lived in for several years while building their country manor in the outskirts of Citrus Center. Bernhardt, of German extraction, grew tropical fruit. In his day he was a leading citizen of Citrus Center, but without heirs he has become a forgotten person in Glades County lore and records are few. IMG_1819

There are numerous people in those days that came to Glades County to start a new life and launched new businesses to serve a wholesome growing community. Unfortunately their dreams died. Cattle barons took ownership of more than 70 percent of the land. Some day that may seem to be a good thing. Glades County remains one of the most remote, isolated and serene places left in all of South Florida. Industry failed to come here, or was chased away, and our cherished land of the Glades remains mostly untouched by the hand of man. Only 13,000 people live in Glades County. It won’t always be this way. Go on a Sunday Drive and see how blessed we are  because one day our descendants might lament the economic development we so eagerly seek. It seems impossible to imagine the changes that take place in a hundred years. It would have been the same for the residents of Citrus Center.

Bored? I recommend a Sunday drive to Lake Hicpochee.

It was a lovely Sunday for a drive and since I  was intrigued by the latest political talk concerning Lake Hicpochee, I said “let’s go look.”  It seems focus groups in the comprehensive planning (dreaming) stages of the Everglades Restoration have ideas of developing the ecotourism potential for the lake and surrounding state-owned lands, as well. So I suggested to a friend we take a drive and look at that land. The lake was once clearly defined, sandy bottom, clean and full of fish. Now it is overwhelmed by the silt and debris caused by dredging and straightening the Caloosahatchee River in the early 1900′s.  It is a lost lake now. Maybe it will be restored some day.  IMG_1763I had kayaked that lake with a bunch of tourists  in 1996 when I attempted to operate my own ecotourism business called Florida Outback Bike & Boat Tours.  They were enthralledby the wildlife and the beautiful flowers in bloom. My business failed. No one was talking about ecotourism in Glades County back then, but me. I guess I was ahead of my time. 

 I love Sunday drives. They get you out of the house and if you do not predetermine the roads you will  explore, and take the path less travelled, there are plenty of enchanting places to discover in our Land of the Glades. First we drove along the Caloosahatchee on the west side, past Moore Haven City Hall to the end of Riverside Drive where I had launched a canoe twice. Several local men were target practicing but quit when we got out of the car. I was taking pictures, not of them, but perhaps they were concerned I would report them.  I didn’t mind but my dog Spot began to shake so we left stopping only to take a picture along the way of the historic and rustic Lake Hicpochee Lodge, once a popular resort for sports fishermen and hunters. IMG_1751_1

Then we headed over the US 27 bridge and down River Road on the other side of the river. We spotted the amazing widow’s walk on top of the old Bowden house. It was made by stretching old dragline cables on top of the roof and covering them with concrete. According to my companion who has lived here 45 years and remembers a lot of local lore, the concrete was hauled up in 5 gallon buckets by young laborers. Bowden's Widow's WalkNext we meandered down the road known here as “old”  US 27 that passes the American Legion Hall and the artist studio that award-winning painter Wes Ringstaff worked out of for many years. He is building a fine new one now elsewhere. IMG_1803The road   ends at the official US 27  and we took a right and less than half mile later a right onto a dirt road leading toward the lake again. Here we saw acres of sod and cane fields. But most of the vast acreage is state owned.

We followed the dirt road alongside Nine Mile Canal IMG_1800_1that took us to the south east side of Lake Hicpochee  and came upon another historic building, an old pump house. It was a pretty fascinating sight of old pump machinery and new. It stands on a hill where wild castor beans grow. A place to fish from a bank or escape from chores just to think. It was a glorious drive. Pump House

I hope you will share with all of us some of your favorite places to see gloriously natural Florida…. our “Land of the Glades.”

Our Private World in Glades County

We went on a Sunday drive. My friend, and me, and Spot. We saw hidden places in Glades County that are remarkably beautiful and so isolated many of you have probably never been there, even if you have lived here for a long time.

Rainey Slough, Real Florida

Rainey Slough, Real Florida

When I was a kid my dad loved to pile us in a car and head out on an adventure exploring new sights, new vistas. I certainly discovered a gem on this drive. Way out on Hwy. 27, past Fisheating Creek and Palmdale, is a lovely place called Venus. Homes and churches are mostly located in Highlands County but there are curving and gently sloped roads just inside the Glades County line. Horse ranches, nurseries, agricultural businesses and homes in wooded groves far, far apart dot the landscape. It is so serene really.

To get there from Moore Haven, my friend and I took a left onto Dietgen’s Dairy Road a few miles past “downtown” Palmdale. As he drove along the road I saw remnants of a huge old dairy that was shut down years ago to stop phosphorus and other contaminants from polluting the creek. 

We drove past a large animal auction barn and Plat Preserve, a wildlife management area. I took a picture of a crumbling turn of the century farmhouse

Old Florida Farm House

Staying on “Dairy Road” all the way to the dead end, we made a left at what used to be called the “Old Venus Road.” Eventually we came upon Rainey Slough Road and followed it across the vast birded wetland of Rainey Slough.  Past the slough’s bridge we found evidence of a private hunting preserve but no signs of life. We had taken a detour down a side road called Farrabee to Quail Road and then Hunter Road. In a cluster there were hunting cabins and homes that seemed to suggest a little hidden human habitat for hunters but few people were there. Even the birdhouse near the fence line looked lonely.                                              
Eastern Bluebird Nesting Box at Edge of Cattle Ranch

Eastern Bluebird Nesting Box at Edge of Cattle Ranch

 In the middle of the day we did not see another car out on these lone stretches of road. But there were a few trucks.

We returned to Rainey Slough Road and taking a right we went a little more than a mile and made a left turn on Hwy. 74. Then we made a right about 2 miles onto Fire Tower Road. The hallmark of this dusty unpaved bumpy back road to Muse is a huge fire tower pushing into the sky like a forest beacon.

Disappointed, we discovered the only deli/convenience store in Muse was closed on Sunday so we drove into La Belle and picked up sack lunches at Winn Dixie. We decided to have a picnic at a quiet Hendry County Park overlooking the Calusa River. So, our drive that Sunday stretched from across the western portion of Glades County touching on the edges of Highlands and then Hendry counties.

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The beautiful little park we chose is the abundantly shaded and well maintained Bob Mason Park. It is located on the scenic back road to Fort Denaud, Alva and North Fort Myers and called Hwy.78-B, an alternate to State Road 80.  It has a playground and boat docks, bathrooms, benches and tables. (Be sure you take the new cutoff to Hwy. 78 as the former approach close to the bridge is now a one way and not accessible from SR 29.)

 I like Sunday drives. It is refreshing to see new changes, new places in this world we inhabit. It is often surprising to find out there’s a lot more to Glades County than you or I know about.

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